As we know, nail extensions are a very popular service in beauty centres since they're the best way to achieve strength and length on natural nails. There are many materials and options for doing them, but without good technique and knowledge of the products and how to use them, the result may not be what's expected in terms of quality and durability.
That's why today we want to share the 6 essential tips so that your nail extension services turn out perfect.
Select the right material for each nail type
On the market you'll find a multitude of products to use for building nail extensions, the most common being: gel, acrylic and acrygel. Not all materials are suitable for all nail types, meaning there's no universal product. Below we explain when you should use each material:
- Acrylic: A very resistant product. Recommended for normal-dry nails that tend to break easily, and also the most recommended product for working on bitten nails due to its strength.
- Gel: A flexible resin. Recommended for oily nails since it doesn't lift easily. If the nails are thin or weak, a burning sensation may occur while curing.
- Acrygel: The perfect combination of acrylic and gel, as it combines the best properties of each. It can be used on almost all nail types except very bitten nails.
Remember to use good quality products that don't contain substances harmful to health, and make sure all the products you use in your centres are legally approved in Spain.
Always apply Primer in your service
You hear all kinds of theories about Primer, such as that it can burn or damage the nail. This won't happen if you use quality products. Primer is an essential product in any nail extension service; we'll always use Primer since, with the file or drill bit, we remove excess oil from the natural nails, and with the Primer we remove excess water.
You should keep in mind that there are two types of Primer:
- Acid-free Primer: Suitable when working with acrylic or acrygel. Since this Primer contains no acid, it prepares the natural nail without wearing it down. It air-dries.
- Bonder: Suitable when working with gel. This type of primer is usually found in polish form and needs to be cured under an LED/UV lamp for the time indicated by the manufacturer.
Assess what needs correcting
After preparing the natural nail, filing it and trimming any skin if necessary, we need to assess the work we can carry out.
It's essential to talk to the client and listen to her expectations regarding the service and, of course, as professionals we must give her appropriate recommendations based on the shape of her hand and nail type.
Not everyone suits the same designs, and thanks to the extension build we can lengthen or shorten the fingers and even correct issues such as onychophagia (bitten nails).
To do this, the first step is to assess the shape, size and appropriate thickness we're going to build on our client's nails. For example, building nail extensions of more than 2 cm from the free edge on bitten or weak nails is a mistake.
Filing and buffing are essential
Once all the nails have been built, regardless of the chosen material, they need to be filed to perfect them. The cuticle area must be left step-free and without touching the skin. All edges must be fully defined with the shape we've chosen for the nails, and no acrylic residue or fluff that could dirty our work should remain on the underside. For this we recommend using a 100/100 acrylic file and a titanium bit for the cuticle area.
As for buffing, yes, it's absolutely necessary. The acrylic must be evened out over the whole surface, with no different mounds or peaks that could later snag on clothing. For this we recommend the 180/180 buffer.
Remove damaged product during the fill-in service
When your client comes to the centre 3-4 weeks after having her nail extensions done, a series of steps must be followed for the fill-in service to last properly.
- Remove the polish so you can see the state of the fill-in.
- If there are hollow areas where the product isn't adhered to the nail, those areas need to be removed until only the well-adhered product remains on the nail.
- If you notice that the product your client is coming in with isn't in good condition, it's best to remove it completely. For this you must use a special remover liquid that doesn't damage the skin or the nail.
- File and correct the shape of the nail until the surface is completely even. You need to prepare both the free area of the natural nail and the acrylic surface that's already applied to the nail and is in good condition.
Take care of your tools
Cleaning and taking care of your tools after each service will extend their lifespan and keep them working properly.
It's necessary to clean and disinfect metal tools, drill bits and files between clients. That's why we recommend having several of the same tools on hand.
As for brushes, they need to be treated with great care since they're one of the biggest investments in our kit. For working with both acrygel and gel, we'll use a synthetic brush. Synthetic brushes can be cleaned very easily with alcohol to remove any product residue that may remain.
The brush for acrylic is made from natural hair and is much more delicate. It should NEVER be cleaned with acetone. The acrylic brush is cleaned with the monomer itself, and the bristles shouldn't be flattened so as not to deform the hair.
Following these steps will make the final result of the nail build perfect, and you'll also build client loyalty.
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