The key to a good eyelash extension application is not only the quality of the products we use but also the technique. At Seena Owell we always recommend proper training to achieve the professional results that will make you stand out.
What is eyelash mapping?
Eyelash mapping is the technique that allows us to determine which extension length to use on each part of the lash line to achieve as natural a result as possible and to create designs that shape the eye.
It's not a complicated process, but it needs to be learned from a professional, and you should practice as much as possible to achieve professional results.
What do you need?
Collagen or hydrogel patches to protect the lower lashes and on which we'll do the mapping.
A fine marker, preferably in a color other than black, so the lines don't get confused with the natural lashes.
Eyelash extensions in various lengths.
Straight and curved tweezers for eyelash extensions.
How is it done?
The first step is to prepare the lashes: we clean and remove makeup from our client's eyes and apply the Primer, which helps remove the natural oil produced by the lashes. This ensures the glue will adhere better.
Before starting the mapping technique, we must check the shape of our client's eyes and verify whether they are symmetrical, which will help us decide on the design and any corrections we can make with the extensions.
Next, we place the patch on the base of the lower eyelid lashes, making sure it covers the entire surface, including the corners.
To start the mapping, our client should close her eyes so that her lashes rest on the patch. We brush the lashes with a small brush to position them, and then we can begin.
We draw lines as an extension of the lashes from the inner and outer corners of the eye, as shown in the diagram.
These two lines form the framework for the mapping and should be longer than the natural lashes.
Next, we find the center of the lash line and also draw a line parallel to the previous ones.
The area from the line drawn at the inner corner to the center line is called the “inner eye,” and the area from the center line to the one drawn at the outer corner is called the “outer eye.”
The next step is to divide these two zones into different sections based on the lash length in each area.
Around 3 segments in the inner eye and 4 in the outer eye is appropriate. The segments in the “inner eye” area will be narrower, and those in the “outer eye” area will be wider.
Finally, we should number each segment with the corresponding length and curl, which will serve as a guide when applying the extensions.
We start from the inner part of the eye and work our way toward the outer corner. Both ends should match the length of the natural lashes, and we'll increase the numbers one by one as we approach the center, although this will depend on the shape of each client's eye.
To decide the length for each section, we'll take one of the extensions from our lash tray with the tweezers and, by holding the extension next to the natural lash, we can determine the approximate length for each area and choose the length of each extension.
Keep in mind that every client is unique, so we can't assume that the mapping done for one client will be repeated for the rest — lash lengths will vary from client to client, so the mapping should be personalized.
The same applies to designs: many of our clients will suit a design where the lashes lengthen toward the outer edge (cat eye), but there will be clients who, depending on the shape and distance between their eyes, need a different type of design.
For more information on how to choose the most suitable design to enhance the eyes, we recommend reading our article: Which lash design is best suited to each eye shape?
Applying the extensions
The next step is to start applying the eyelash extensions. In this case, it's best to start from the inner corner of the eye. In most cases we'll be talking about a length of 7 or 8, although as mentioned earlier, this depends on the client and the shape of their eyes.
When moving to the second section of our mapping, it's best to start this area by alternating the length used in the first section with the one corresponding to this second section; this will help create a smoother transition and give a more natural gradient effect. The rest of the section will be completed with the chosen length.
We'll follow this same process across all sections until the entire lash line is complete.
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