Russian Volume Eyelash Extensions – Keys to Calculating Fans

Extensiones de pestañas de volumen ruso – Claves para el cálculo de los abanicos
Russian volume or 3D-4D-6D… is a technique used to achieve lashes with more volume. This technique is today one of the most in-demand services when it comes to eyelash extensions. It's not a quick service — it usually takes between 2 and 3 hours (which is why the price is higher) — but the result is spectacular and well worth the time we need to dedicate to it. This technique is complex and highly specialized, achieving 2, 3, 4… up to 8 dimensions of volume beyond the natural lash by applying several ultra-fine extensions (0.05-0.06-0.07) to each natural lash. It also creates a denser effect, since it covers possible gaps between lashes and achieves a mascara-like effect. To prevent the weight of the eyelash extensions from damaging the natural hair, the service must be personalized, using fans based not only on the desired volume but also on the diameter of our client's natural lashes.

How it's done

2D, 3D, 4D… depends on the number of lashes placed on the natural lash, so these must be 0.05 – 0.06 – 0.07 or 0.10 thick at most. The first step is to prepare the natural lashes and measure them to confirm their diameter and, based on that, choose the number of extensions we need to use per natural lash. This is not a simple process; below we show how it should be done: We start by removing makeup and degreasing the natural lash, then we place the patch to protect the lower lashes. We should choose, for example, extensions with diameters of 0.10mm - 0.15mm – 0.20mm to be able to roughly measure the natural lash. Next, we separate the natural lashes with tweezers and bring the different extension sizes close to the natural lash, comparing them to choose the corresponding diameter. Once we've determined the diameter of the natural lash, we need to determine the number of extensions needed to make the fan we want, based on the volume we want to achieve (2D, 3D, etc.). This is the most complex step, but to make it easier, in the next section we've included charts of the number and thickness of extensions to use for each technique and the most common natural lash diameters. Note that this system is valid both for pre-made fans and for fans made manually. It's important to note that in this technique not everything works — that is, we can't apply a 4D or 6D fan to a thin natural lash. We must be responsible when offering this technique and advise our clients so they achieve the desired look without damaging the natural lash.

Russian volume extension chart

Example 1: A 3D fan (with 3 lash extensions) with a thickness of 0.07mm is equivalent to the weight of a single lash extension with a thickness of 0.13mm. This way we can know whether the weight of the 3D fan we're going to place on the natural lash is excessive, in order not to damage the natural lash. 3D fan chart for Russian volume eyelash extensions

Other equivalences below:

[gallery size="full" link="none" ids="377,376,373,372,375,374"] With these equivalences you make sure you're applying the correct volume for each client, without mistakes, without heavy lashes, and most importantly, without damage to the natural lashes. However, if you have any questions about the calculations shown, don't hesitate to contact us by phone, email, or through the chat on our website. It should be clarified that the lifespan of Russian volume eyelash extensions is logically the same as that of classic one-to-one extensions, since it depends on the natural lash cycle. Likewise, the aftercare for this type of extension is the same: don't get them wet in the 24 hours immediately after application, don't clean them with oil-based products, don't rub them… We hope you found the content of this post interesting; if you think it could be helpful, don't hesitate to comment and share.
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María Lozano

Técnico especialista en estética y belleza. Tras años de experiencia práctica en cabina, hoy centro toda mi energía en mi gran vocación: la formación y el asesoramiento a otras compañeras del sector. He especializado mis cursos en áreas clave como el diseño de miradas (lifting, extensiones, laminación, henna y microblading), manicura, tratamientos faciales y maderoterapia. En este blog comparto contigo mis trucos técnicos, consejos reales y toda mi experiencia para ayudarte a perfeccionar tus servicios y resolver las dudas del día a día en tu centro.

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